- Electric Brasserie, 191 Portobello Road
Words by Quentin Jones & Emma Paterson.
August in London, and like any other month, we’re hungry. So in we trundle from the rain-soaked desolation of midweek Portobello to have our spirits lifted by the understated energy of the Electric Brasserie, gastronomic home to the well groomed and well-heeled. Moseying in for Monday night supper, you’d be forgiven for mistaking the evening for a Friday; there’s not a flute unfilled or an empty table in sight. In fact, if hunger had not been at the forefront of our minds, we may have felt a touch underdressed. Luckily our companion, the leggy Brunette keeps up appearances with her skin-tight, chessboard leggings.
Seated to the back of the restaurant by a high bunned-hostess, it’s a relief to be welcomed by a basket of elastic, porous bread that’s all the better for absorbing the chunks of butter accompanying it. Next comes the sparkling water, and then, hot on its heels, a bottle of Rosso di Montepulciano ‘Sabazio’, which the snappily-dressed, bespectacled manager announces, upon hearing our selection, is “the perfect choice”. Convinced as we are of our impeccable taste, it is heartening to have him confirm it, and smugly we peruse the menu.
The selection is Goldilocks-inspired, not too much and not too little. Not wanting to exceed our red meat quotient, we’re torn between the carpaccio of beef as a starter and the steak for main course. Opting for the latter, the Brunette chooses burrata, tomatoes and basil to begin, with the 10oz sirloin with chips and bearnaise to follow. We start with the scallops, borlotti beans, spinach and lardons, but not wanting our masculinity outstripped; we choose the steak frites for main. By the time we look up, the Brunette’s starter plate is clean (greedy little thing), and she sips from the wine with the knowledge that she’s chosen exceedingly well. My scallops are succulent and salty, although the beans sit slightly on the crumbly, arid side. The burrata, I glean through the Brunette’s coos of satisfaction, is blissfully mild, a perfect balance between the chewy and the creamy.
The sirloin, she finds, is less successful; a little on the stringy side, and a touch undercooked for medium-rare. The bearnaise, however, with its notes of punchy tarragon, strikes the right chord exactly. The steak frites is altogether a more successful plate. It did exactly what it should: satisfy an empty stomach. After this we choose a dessert to share, despite both having passed a comfortable level of fullness. We opt for the Eton mess, after all it’s still raining outside. The Brunette worms out all of the fruit and meringue, leaving me to make a judgment on a plateful of cream. She seems very pleased – with herself or the last sweet mouthful, I am not quite sure.
Drink
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, Itynra, Abruzzo 2009 £27.50
Start
Burrata, tomatoes & basil £8.50
Scallops, borlotti beans, spinach & lardons £12.00
Middle
Steak frites £14.50
10 oz Sirloin steak, chips and bearnaise £19.50
End
Eton Mess £6.00
TOTAL including 12.5% = £92.25
Electric Brasserie website [click here]
