With New Year barely out of the way, fashion has already entered full swing – today sees the launch of the London Collections: Men – but then fashion waits for no man. With menswear designers in the spotlight like never before – this is just the second London Collections: Men ever, with the first launching in June last year – we’ve picked our top five designers to keep your beady eyes on this week:
The 2010 Central Saint Martins-graduate is quickly making a name for himself with his clean cuts, minimal quirky detailing and futuristic fabrics. Selfridges included Roach’s spring/summer 2011 collection in their ‘Bright Young Thing’s’ initiative and he has already worked with Meadham Kirchhoff, Peter Saville and Kilgour on Savile Row. Watch out for our Studio Visit with Lee, which we’ll be posting this week.
Martine Rose is a woman after our own heart; last season’s collection drew inspiration from Gian Lorenzo Bernini’s marble sculpture ‘The Rape of Persephone’. While Bernini attempted to recreate flesh from cold hard marble – Martine turned her models into walking works of art in vibrant shades of orange, double denim and colourful abstract detailing. And each man donned a sheer white marble-coloured nylon mask embroidered with patches of Joan Miró oranges, reds and blacks. Models were buttoned up with Martine’s signature shirt, but clutched tees adorned with pop culture slogans and donned sports sandals that added a more relaxed, lazy summer feel to the collection.
Argentina-born Aitor Throup is a designer who likes to do things a little differently – for one he considers himself a product designer rather than fashion designer, so it was no surprise that he suspended his collection on mannequins from seemingly mid-air. He focuses on the architectural and conceptual display of his creations rather than the clothes themselves, making his collection much more of an exhibition that could easily slot right into the Design Museum than a venue at London’s Collections.
Katie Eary’s no holds barred SS13 designs were a riotous symphony of colour, Versace and surfer-style tropical Hawaiian digital prints, layered over swimming pool aqua marine blue – think late 90s band Smoke City’s video for ‘Underwater Love.’ Models glided down the catwalk donning brilliant white high tops, board shorts, patent white rucksacks and carried skate boards. And the girls got a look in too, strutting through in thigh-high, low-cut printed swimsuits, who wouldn’t look out of place lounging poolside in Ibiza, cocktail in hand.
Fashion East: Joseph Turvey
The Shropshire-born Joseph Turvey only graduated from his MA at London College of Fashion last February, but he’s already been picked to show with the coveted platform, Fashion East. Garnering a rep for bright, bold colours with a playful use of illustration, he’s another fan of the tropical print, this time taken from the jungle. Bright green jungle leaves were interspersed with his own hand drawn illustrations, giving his pieces a very personal and unique touch, and his collaboration with French lace master Sophie Hallete, added a certain je ne sais quoi.
For the London Collections: Men show schedule [click here]